A plethora of scientific reviews were published in 2021, spanning a range of important beauty topics from blue light protection and the history of sunscreen through to active ingredient delivery and circular ingredient promise. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe...
Exposure to urban pollution can increase skin pigmentation over time – likely a protective response mechanism triggered by oxidative stress – but certain topicals can partly prevent this, finds a study.
Skin care brands are increasingly interested in including all skin colors in their clinical testing, but testing methods don’t yet account for differences in aging symptoms.
A new study by Japanese cosmetics firm Shiseido has discovered evidence that men tend to form wrinkles at the corners of their eyes more than a decade earlier than women.
Consumer and regulatory demands are pushing personal care brands to use more botanical ingredients, pulling essential oils further out of fragrance and demanding more research.
Beauty formulators must continue to strengthen supplier relationships, particularly amidst the push for greener and more sustainable product development, says the president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS).
Special Edition: NATURALS & NATURALLY-DERIVED – SOURCING, CHEMISTRY AND CLAIMS
Bioactive compounds extracted from olive oil production waste offer great promise for active cosmetic development, though further research and investment must be made to ensure processing was conducted sustainably, a review says.
Personal care major Unilever has developed an antiperspirant formula without traditional metal-based actives like aluminium, offering an active alternative thanks to a blend of film forming polymers, solvents and plasticizers.
Many consumers already drink wine for its potential health benefits, but the waste from its production may be a good source of bioactive cosmetic ingredients.
Japanese cosmetics company Menard has published a study on the causes of greying hair that suggests that Korean red ginseng and truffle can help prevent the process by targeting pigment stem cells.
Special Edition: NATURALS & NATURALLY-DERIVED – SOURCING, CHEMISTRY AND CLAIMS
As the beauty industry continues its push forward with natural and organic cosmetics innovation, focus must be placed on the biodegradability of ingredients – still surprisingly overlooked in the field, says a formulation expert.
Consumer interest is turning more towards natural and sustainable ingredients, and while plant extracts are a good potential avenue to satisfy that trend, more research is needed to effectively implement natural antioxidants.
Targeting microbiome-related pathways that involve the production of skin pigment, fatty acids, and ceramides could delay the signs of skin ageing, according to an Estée Lauder funded study.
Special Edition: INSIDE-OUT BEAUTY – THE RISE OF EDIBLES AND FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
A round-up of our scientific study coverage on inside-out beauty ingredients spotlights tomatoes, pine bark and red ginseng, amongst others, as promising ingredients for industry to consider closely.
Are you researching the latest state-of-the-art developments related to prebiotic, probiotic and microbiome science relevant to human health, well-being, consumers and industry? If so, we would like to hear from you!
Special Edition: INSIDE-OUT BEAUTY – THE RISE OF EDIBLES AND FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Plant peptides, plant hormones and cannabinoids should be more closely looked at for developing dual-action dermal and hair rejuvenation edibles and replacing retinoids that carry several negative side effects, say researchers.
Customers are increasingly looking to consumer brands to bring them more eco and socially responsible products, but most of that work has to be done much earlier in the supply chain.
Observations indicate that different skin ethnicities experience aging differently, and using tissue engineering a French research team set out to show the value of vitro studies in research on dark skin types.
A herbal face wash manufactured by India-based Himalaya Drug Company has been clinically studied to prevent and reduce mild-to-moderate acne after four weeks of daily use.
In this round-up, we dive into our most-read stories on cosmetics science, formulation and R&D, featuring Shiseido, LG Household & Healthcare, L'Oréal and more.
Botanical green tea extracts can protect hair from ultraviolet (UV) damage by reducing the formation of certain protein biomarkers, though efficacy is linked to antioxidant levels of the extract, finds a P&G funded study.
Saponins from tomato seeds may improve skin elasticity in healthy women, says a new study from Japanese researchers that could open up opportunities in anti-wrinkle or anti-aging formulations.
Korean cosmetic company Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient with extracts from peach sprouts and peonies, which it claims is effective in inhibiting and regulating the secretion of sebum on the skin.
Special Edition: CIRCULAR BEAUTY – SUSTAINABLE SOURCING, GREEN CHEMISTRY AND ECO-DESIGN
Green chemistry takes industry from linear to circular thinking, representing the future of truly sustainable innovation, particularly when creating new blends for preservation, an expert says.
Polyphenolic compounds recovered from waste from the production of craft beers may boost mitochondrial activity and prevent oxidative stress in skin cells, and offer novel anti-aging ingredients for cosmetic formulations.
We all know our age. But how old does our body think it is? One test looks at “biological age” vs. chronological age and Terrain Health is just one of a dozen approved companies in the nation offering a biomarker-based evaluation called Agebio, a test...
Three new face creams formulated with dexpanthenol were well tolerated with high product satisfaction and acceptability for people with dry and sensitive skin, says a new study.
Special Edition: CIRCULAR BEAUTY – SUSTAINABLE SOURCING, GREEN CHEMISTRY AND ECO-DESIGN
Nanoparticles made using natural polymers and ingredients from waste materials offer the cosmetics industry great promise in developing active beauty products for skin health that align with green economy goals, say researchers.
Researchers have found that not performing adequate cosmetic care of skin, hair, and could have significant negative psychological impacts amid the pandemic.
A complete shift in the safety assessment of chemicals will be necessary if the EU is to uphold its ‘animal testing as a last resort’ policy under the European Chemicals Agency’s REACH regulation – a critical aspect to maintaining the wider cosmetics...
International beauty major has developed a hair styling formulation for curly hair from a blend of sugar compounds and plant fibre, offering a natural and light-weight alternative to film-forming polymer and silicone products.
Japanese scientists have reported that the compound 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) may protect against water loss from the skin and act as a moisturizing agent in topical cosmetic formulations.
Special Edition: Advances in the Skin Microbiome - Ingredients innovation and Science
Industry will deepen understanding further on the interplay between the microbiota and its host thanks to emerging technologies like single-cell research and in vivo imaging techniques, say researchers.
A recent clinical trial of postmenopausal women found daily supplementation with Korean red ginseng significantly improved mitochondrial function, antioxidant status, and reduced fatigue within eight weeks.
The biological advancement is now coming to the forefront of beauty, bringing innovations and opportunities through its ability to program code to grow new kinds of beauty ingredients.
Whilst intrigue is rising around bio-based sunscreens, not all consumers know enough about certain ingredients and aspects like SPF protection and pricing come up as key concerns, say researchers.
Daily supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage may reduce wrinkles and improve collagen morphology in the skin, says a new study from scientists in France and Brazil.
The compound 2-butyloctanol shows potential prebiotic activity by promoting skin friendly bacteria in human armpits, while also inhibiting the growth of odor-causing bacteria, says a new study from Colgate-Palmolive.
A herbal blend formulation of soy germ, black cohosh, chase-tree berry and evening primrose seed was found to improve skin roughness and other skin parameters in post-menopausal women.
Extracts of Acmella oleracea formulated in an “all-natural” emulsion serum can reduce the appearance of wrinkles within two weeks, says a new study that also supports the safety and stability of the serum.
Colgate-Palmolive has partnered with research organisation Verily Life Sciences to conduct a two-year clinical trial investigating the link between oral health and systemic human health conditions, specifically cardiovascular disease and Type II diabetes.
Extracts from the Southeast Asian tree Thanaka may offer natural alternatives for sun protection, according to a new systematic review from scientists at Jalan Universiti in Malaysia and Lancaster University in the UK.
Lycored has outlined mechanisms explaining how carotenoids and polyphenols protect the skin against ultraviolet (UV) radiation with a blend of these phytonutrients contributing to skin health and appearance.
The anti-dandruff hair care category has long focused on antibacterial formulations, but microbiome-friendly blends that promote scalp bacteria balance may be as effective, says the founder of French indie brand Gallinée.
A new grant from PRIMA Québec suggests it can. The advanced materials research and innovation hub has just put over $300,000 behind an ECA development project led by three experts in the field.
A herbal cream formulated with ginger, turmeric, Chinese cinnamon and Atractylodes chinensis extract was found to improve wrinkle formation among female subjects with soft and delicate skin, suggesting that it may help prevent or slow skin ageing.
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![Shiseido has discovered evidence that men tend to form crow's feet more than a decade earlier. [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/article/2021/12/08/shiseido-research-show-men-form-crow-s-feet-wrinkles-more-than-10-years-earlier-than-women/13047221-1-eng-GB/Shiseido-research-show-men-form-crow-s-feet-wrinkles-more-than-10-years-earlier-than-women.jpg)
![Suppliers have a wealth of knowledge around traceability and ingredient powers that are invaluable to formulators, particularly when working on green beauty projects [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/29/green-beauty-agenda-needs-strong-supplier-formulator-relationships-says-scs-president/13049793-1-eng-GB/Green-beauty-agenda-needs-strong-supplier-formulator-relationships-says-SCS-president.jpg)
![Various bioactive compounds found in olive pomace - the main by-product of olive oil production - offer promise for skin care formulations [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/25/olive-oil-waste-touted-as-promising-for-active-cosmetics-due-to-antioxidant-anti-inflammatory-bioactives/13043722-1-eng-GB/Olive-oil-waste-touted-as-promising-for-active-cosmetics-due-to-antioxidant-anti-inflammatory-bioactives.jpg)
![Unilever says the compositions are ideal for aerosol antiperspirants designed for the underarms, but can also be incorporated into stick or gel roll-on products [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/24/unilever-files-patents-on-metal-free-antiperspirant-blends-for-better-efficacy/13039518-1-eng-GB/Unilever-files-patents-on-metal-free-antiperspirant-blends-for-better-efficacy.jpg)
![Menard suggests that Korean red ginseng and truffle can help prevent grey hair. [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/menard-cosmetics-new-study-suggests-red-ginseng-and-truffles-can-prevent-greying-hair/12996194-1-eng-GB/Menard-Cosmetics-new-study-suggests-red-ginseng-and-truffles-can-prevent-greying-hair.jpg)
![The biodegradability of a beauty product - its ability to decompose into simpler substances like CO2, water or ammonia - must be on the green agenda for suppliers, formulators and brands [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/11/18/biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert/13026628-1-eng-GB/Biodegradable-beauty-focus-needed-in-natural-and-organics-before-regulatory-change-says-expert.jpg)
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![Our most-read stories on cosmetics science, formulation and R&D. [Shiseido]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/shiseido-l-oreal-and-lg-h-h-feature-in-our-cosmetic-science-round-up/12944249-1-eng-GB/Shiseido-L-Oreal-and-LG-H-H-feature-in-our-cosmetic-science-round-up.jpg)
![A P&G study has shown that green tea extracts high in polyphenols offer strong protection against UV hair damage [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign.com/headlines/formulation-science/hair-care-uv-protection-promise-with-botanical-green-tea-extracts-due-to-antioxidants-finds-p-g-funded-study/12939443-1-eng-GB/Hair-care-UV-protection-promise-with-botanical-green-tea-extracts-due-to-antioxidants-finds-P-G-funded-study.jpg)
![Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient which it claims is effective in inhibiting secretion of sebum on the skin. [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/formulation-science/amorepacific-files-patent-on-sebum-inhibiting-peach-sprout-and-peony-extract/12830377-1-eng-GB/Amorepacific-files-patent-on-sebum-inhibiting-peach-sprout-and-peony-extract.jpg)
![Applying green principles to beauty NPD, especially in the area of preservatives, will be key in driving forward circularity [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/10/08/green-chemistry-innovation-in-cosmetics-preservation-can-future-proof-industry-says-expert/12910215-1-eng-GB/Green-chemistry-innovation-in-cosmetics-preservation-can-future-proof-industry-says-expert.jpg)
![Nanoparticles made from fishery by-product and plant biomass could be used to make emulsions targeting skin ageing from stress and environmental pollution [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/09/30/green-beauty-promise-with-sustainable-circular-nanoparticles-from-waste-material-for-skin-health/12884477-1-eng-GB/Green-beauty-promise-with-sustainable-circular-nanoparticles-from-waste-material-for-skin-health.jpg)
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![A closer understanding on the interplay between host defence strategies and skin microbiota will be helped by emerging research technologies [Getty Images]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/news_teaser_medium/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/article/2021/09/08/skin-microbiome-research-to-advance-host-microbiota-interaction-knowledge/12803386-1-eng-GB/Skin-microbiome-research-to-advance-host-microbiota-interaction-knowledge.jpg)
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![Dr. G is continuing to expand in South East Asia with a new store in Malaysia. [Dr. G]](https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/var/wrbm_gb_food_pharma/storage/images/_aliases/wrbm_tiny/publications/cosmetics/cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/headlines/business-financial/dr.-g-doubles-down-on-sea-expansion-on-the-back-of-sunscreen-popularity/16498790-1-eng-GB/Dr.-G-doubles-down-on-SEA-expansion-on-the-back-of-sunscreen-popularity.jpg)
