Topical cosmetic application of vitamin C is more effective than oral supplementation when targeting skin health, but challenges remain around stability and absorption, finds a review.
Nutritional screening and assessments to diagnose, treat, and prevent all types of malnutrition should be carried out before surgery to obtain the best results from cosmetic procedures, according to a recent review.
The supplementation of French pine bark extract has shown to increase hair density in women who have undergone menopause, according to a six-month clinical trial conducted in Shanghai.
Researchers must strengthen lab models and overcome long-standing scientific bias and reliance on Euro-centric data if industry is to advance skin pigmentation knowledge, says a leading dermatology professor.
A study in China has suggested that alternating red and blue light irradiation combined with collagen dressing can improve the treatment efficacy of acne vulgaris.
Special Edition: ACTIVE BEAUTY – VITAMINS, MINERALS AND PLANT POWER
As mushrooms continue to garner interest in the wider wellness category, certain compounds could offer future promise in the edible and topical beauty space, say researchers.
Chinese herbs containing anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, itch-relieving and immunoregulating benefits can reduce symptoms and the recurrence of atopic dermatitis, without the side effects associated with conventional treatment methods, say researchers....
Natural plant extracts will continue to garner interest in the sunscreen category because of the multitude of active and functional properties they offer to a formulation, in addition to UV protection, say researchers.
A round-up of CosmeticsDesign-Europe’s most-read news from December 2022 shows interest in Unilever’s patent on a two-step SPF method, a deep-dive interview with Weleda’s R&D chief and insight on biotech promise in collagen.
US biofabrication specialist Modern Meadow has developed a recombinant protein inspired by Collagen type III from yeast, offering the beauty industry a more sustainable alternative to traditional animal-sourced collagens, its VP of R&D says.
A flurry of patents were filed in 2022 from industry heavyweights, including L’Oréal, Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive and Shiseido. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe rounds up our coverage of the year’s patent-worthy innovations.
Higher costs and lack of supplier alignment are the core issues slowing uptake of green materials, ingredients and processes amongst beauty and personal care manufacturers and brands, say specialist suppliers.
Jade extract have been shown to display anti-inflammation and skin repairing activity in human skin fibroblasts, according to new research from Sichuan University, China.
International personal care major Unilever has developed a two-step method offering high SPF and UVA protection via a cleanser and cream that can be offered to consumers in a kit.
Natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) or ‘future solvents’ from plants and microalgae could offer multifunctional promise for cosmetics because of their biocompatible nature, according to a research team from the University of Tours in France.
Hydrolysed collagen reduces the synthesis of lipopolysaccharides (LPS) and the subsequent release of pro-inflammatory cytokines to preserve skin immune integrity and prevent infections in the elderly, say researchers.
The University of Lisbon is working to build a database of brain responses to individual fragrances to help industry better predict how consumers will respond to perfumes or scented beauty products.
Whey waste from cheese production holds significant promise as an active ingredient for cosmetic formulations, particularly those targeting skin health and dermal ageing, finds an EU research consortium.
A round-up of CosmeticsDesign-Europe’s most-read news from November 2022 shows interest in L’Oréal’s skin science research around tightness and UV protection, Superdrug own-brand makeup launch and future sustainable beauty trends.
Here we round-up the very latest scientific developments for the skin care sector featuring new and emerging ingredients, safety warnings, and data for China product development.
A topical probiotic formulation may boost radiance and hydration of skin, while also improving skin clarity and softness, says a new study from New Zealand.
New research suggests that herbal formulations containing thyme, wheat grass and ginseng, along with ferulic and gallic acid, are the most promising natural products for new cosmetics with skin anti-ageing properties.
Cosmetics researchers are still exploring how microscopic life on our skin affects its health, but recent research has started to piece together the puzzle.
A century-old method using live virus bacteriophages has the potential to make its revival in skin care via formulations designed to target blemish-prone skin, says US supplier Biocogent.
A fragrance label from Singapore has released a line of hand sanitisers with prebiotics to keep up with the post-pandemic premiumisation of the hand care category.
The head of Mibelle Biochemistry says the firm will concentrate efforts on skin-ageing research as concerns of healthspan and lifespan come into the spotlight.
US-based Stanford University is working with international beauty major L’Oréal to investigate skin tightness, looking at how mechano-receptors send signals into the neural circuit upon application of a topical.
Daily protection against the entire UV spectrum, including ultra-long UVA, can help slow signs of photoageing across all skin phototypes and ancestry, according to global clinical studies from beauty major L’Oréal.
Humans have been creating personal care products for more than 9,000 years, and one of the first fragrance ingredients may have cosmetic potential today.
A South Korean study has tested magnesium microneedle patches on the delicate undereye area and found that it could significantly improve wrinkles in 12 weeks.
No-rinse shampoos are both trendy and, when effective, could have a significant impact on the quality of life and hygiene of the elderly, bedridden and ICU patients.
Consumers worldwide will have very similar neural responses to fragrances, but it’s the cognitive associations of these scents that creates interesting nuances for beauty to investigate, says a leading experimental psychologist.
Portugal-based contract research firm PhD Trials has found that the environmental space surrounding the skin can influence sensorial response and induce neural activity, creating exciting promise for cosmetics.
A team of Japanese dermatologists believe COVID-19-related hair loss is likely due to the overproduction of cytokine that is typically associated with the disease.
Japanese personal care major Kao Corporation has blended carbonated water into a shampoo formula for curly hair to improve the penetration and effectiveness of its curl-loosening ingredient, offering better style control at the washing stage.
Highly personalised beauty continues to soar and advances in specific digital technologies will empower and inform innovators, offering significant promise in areas like consumer wellness and mental health, says an expert.
Menopause is yet another area of women’s health that has been hugely under-resourced but there are exciting developments in the scientific world and big opportunities for innovation, especially within the spaces of gut health and sleep.
The concern over long COVID and its impact on skin health will drive consumer demand for safety, thereby pushing more cosmetic companies to develop products in accordance with the ISO natural origin index, according to a new review.
Cosmetic formulation platforms like Novi Connect and The Good Face Project have entered the R&D process hoping to make access to data easier and more simple.
Non-surgical cosmetic procedures such as Botox and dermal fillers are rising in popularity, but practitioners and the wider beauty industry must be aware of the long-term impacts to body image these can create on a societal level, say researchers.
A Singapore-based food start-up cultivating mushroom mycelium as an alternative protein source believes it can also serve the cosmetics industry as a natural, sustainable, and completely food-safe ingredient.
A leading neuroscientist and Oxford University startup are working with Unilever and Beiersdorf to investigate whether there might be a skin biomarker for Alzheimer’s disease.
Human skin microbiology specialist Labskin has developed a pigmented skin model in partnership with Bradford University that it says represents a breakthrough for cosmetics and health research and could even lead to new discoveries.
![Vitamin C or ascorbic acid offers many skin health benefits when incorporated into topical formulations, from UV damage protection to collagen maintenance [Getty Images]](jpg/vitamin-c-in-topical-cosmetics-promising-for-skin-health-says-review-2.jpg)
![Researchers should be careful not to over-emphasise Euro-centric data, remembering that Africa has the highest level of genetic diversity in the world [Getty Images]](jpg/dermatology-professor-discusses-skin-pigmentation-research-hurdles-and-opportunities-at-ifscc-2023.jpg)
![Alternating red and blue light irradiation combined with collagen dressing can improve the treatment efficacy of acne vulgaris, says new study. [Getty Images]](jpg/collagen-application-can-enhance-the-anti-acne-effects-of-red-and-blue-light-irradiation-2.jpg)
![The beta-glucans and polyphenols in mushrooms are particularly interesting for the cosmeceutical and nutraceutical spaces [Getty Images]](jpg/mushrooms-offer-cosmeceutical-nutraceutical-promise-around-skin-health-immunity-and-wellness-finds-review-2.jpg)
![Campomanesia leaves are just one plant extract identified as offering UV protective properties because of an array of active constituents in this part of the plant [Getty Images]](jpg/botanicals-likely-to-be-the-future-of-sunscreens-review-2.jpg)
![The company's 'biocollagen' or recombinant protein can be integrated at low doses into skin care formulations to stimulate Collagen type III [Getty Images]](jpg/modern-meadow-says-biocollagen-from-yeast-shows-promise-for-skin-care-beauty-to-stimulate-collagen-type-iii-2.jpg)
![Unilever, L'Oréal, Procter & Gamble, Colgate-Palmolive, Beiersdorf, Coty and Shiseido all filed important patents in 2022 [Getty Images]](jpg/beauty-patents-2022-from-unilever-l-oreal-colgate-palmolive-and-more-focus-on-uv-protection-hair-care-and-technology-2.jpg)
![Many beauty manufacturers and brands have driven green transformations, but suppliers think cost and lack of harmonisation may be slowing wider uptake of ingredients and raw materials [Getty Images]](jpg/green-beauty-suppliers-say-ingredient-uptake-slow-because-of-cost-and-lack-of-harmonisation-2.jpg)
![Jade extract have been shown to display anti-inflammation and skin repairing activity. [Getty Images]](jpg/jade-extracts-display-anti-inflammation-and-skin-repairing-abilities-china-study-2.jpg)
![Unilever's invention features a cleansing wash-off step with a composition comprising high levels of water-soluble UVA and UVB sunscreens [Getty Images]](jpg/unilever-files-international-patent-for-two-step-spf-uva-protection-via-cleanser-and-sunscreen-2.jpg)
![A team at the University of Tours researched natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) and the potential to use these in cosmetic creams and gels [Getty Images]](jpg/university-of-tours-france-research-on-nades-extracts-from-microalgae-for-multifunctional-cosmetics-promise-2.jpg)
![The team are aiming to quantify emotional responses to fragrances, ultimately empowering formulators to predict impact and design to influence [Getty Images]](jpg/university-of-lisbon-brain-activity-fragrance-research-aims-to-map-and-quantify-emotional-responses-2.jpg)
![The European dairy industry produces around 75 million tonnes of whey each year and the cheese sector is considered the 'most polluting' [Getty Images]](jpg/ingreen-eu-project-identifies-cheese-whey-as-having-cosmetic-active-ingredient-promise-says-ineuvo-ltd-2.jpg)
![L'Occitane says the extract is high in antioxidants and thus can reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin and limit protein carbonylation [Getty Images]](jpg/l-occitane-korean-chili-pepper-extract-research-for-skin-radiance-promising-3.jpg)
![A carefully selected cocktail of live viruses can diminish Cutibacterium acnes in the skin and reduce inflammation - two aspects linked to blemishes and the skin condition [Getty Images]](jpg/bacteriophage-therapy-for-acne-and-blemish-prone-skin-promising-says-supplier-biocogent-2.jpg)
![Scent Journer has released a line of hand sanitisers with prebiotics. [Scent Journer]](jpg/scent-journer-develops-prebiotic-hand-sanitisers-to-keep-up-with-post-covid-premiumisation-2.jpg)
![Mibelle Biochemistry will concentrate efforts on skin-ageing research. [Getty Images]](jpg/mibelle-biochemistry-zeroes-in-on-skin-ageing-to-tackle-healthspan-and-lifespan-concerns-2.jpg)
![The sensation of skin tightness is widely known but the mechanism behind it is still not fully understood [Getty Images]](jpg/stanford-university-and-l-oreal-researching-skin-tightness-and-neural-response-2.jpg)
![Clariant focusing beauty R&D on stress management in a post-pandemic world [Getty Images]](jpg/clariant-focusing-beauty-r-d-on-stress-management-in-post-covid-world-2.jpg)
![L'Oréal recently completed a one-year long study in Brazil showing daily standard UV protection is critical in slowing signs of photoageing and had also proven the power of full-spectrum UVA protection across different phototypes in Brazil and East Asia [Getty Images]](jpg/l-oreal-uv-protection-photoageing-clinical-studies-shows-ultra-long-uva-protection-important-2.jpg)
![COVID-related hair loss has been linked to the severity of stress, [Getty Images]](jpg/covid-and-hair-loss-new-multicentre-study-links-it-with-stress-2.jpg)
![South Korean study has tested magnesium microneedle patches on the delicate undereye area. [Getty Images]](jpg/microneedle-patches-found-to-significantly-improve-undereye-wrinkles-in-12-weeks-study-2.jpg)
![The psychology of fragrance is a fascinating field, throwing up important questions around how gender and cultural background might influence consumer perceptions [Getty Images]](jpg/fragrance-psychology-shows-same-male-female-responses-with-nuanced-perceptions-based-on-culture-cognitive-associations-3.jpg)
![Contract researcher PhD Trials has coined a new concept - the emossome - as the influencial space surrounding the skin, able to induce neural activity [Getty Images]](jpg/phd-trials-presents-emossome-concept-of-skin-and-surrounding-space-as-influential-to-brain-activity-2.jpg)
![COVID-19-related hair loss is likely due to the overproduction of cytokine that is typically associated with the disease, study. [Getty Images]](jpg/covid-hairloss-japanese-dermatologists-link-hair-loss-to-covid-induced-cytokine-storm-2.jpg)
![Kao Corporation says carbonated water improves the efficacy of its curl-loosening technology in shampoo, offering consumers better styling control post-wash [Getty Images]](jpg/kao-corporation-hair-care-study-shows-carbonated-water-improves-active-ingredient-penetration-2.jpg)
![The fast developments and wider access of these three digital technologies mean beauty companies can start developing smarter and more meaningful personalised offerings [Getty Images]](jpg/personalised-beauty-future-promise-with-genomics-microbiome-analysis-and-biomarker-sensing-says-sagentia-innovation-2.jpg)
![The democratisation of injectables in beauty has seen huge focus on the role of practitioners, but little focus on the lasting impact these procedures have on body image and ideals in society [Getty Images]](jpg/botox-and-fillers-market-must-consider-sociological-impact-long-term-on-identifies-and-body-image-say-researchers-2.jpg)
![A Singapore-based food start-up cultivating mushroom mycelium as an alternative protein source believes it can also serve the cosmetics industry as a natural, sustainable, and completely food-safe ingredient. [Getty Images]](jpg/mycrocell-pushing-mushroom-mycelium-as-natural-and-sustainable-ingredient-for-cosmetics-2.jpg)
![Neuro-Bio believes there could, potentially, be a means to predict Alzheimer's and neurodegenerative diseases by looking at the skin [Getty Images]](jpg/brain-skin-research-by-neuro-bio-investigating-skin-biomarker-for-alzheimer-s-disease-2.jpg)
![The latest skin model opens up a variety of research opportunities in cosmetics, dermatology and beyond [Image: Labskin/Deepverge]](jpg/labskin-pigmented-3d-lab-grown-skin-model-research-and-npd-opportunities-cast-2.jpg)
![Dr. G is continuing to expand in South East Asia with a new store in Malaysia. [Dr. G]](jpg/dr.-g-doubles-down-on-sea-expansion-on-the-back-of-sunscreen-popularity-2.jpg)
